Totalitarian regimes have a habit of portraying themselves as monolithic, yet well-oiled machines, churning out astounding achievements in the fields of science, engineering, military technology.
To that respect, the Soviet Union during the Cold War era was no different, seeking to impress the capitalist world with its wondrous industrial development, its aerospace conquests, and its armaments program.
But totalitarian regimes also have a habit of pulling the most embarrassing FUBARs, SNAFUs, oopsies, whatever you like to call them.
Key Takeaways
- The Darvaza gas crater, known as the Gates of Hell, is a 70-meter wide, 30-meter deep crater burning methane gas in Turkmenistan’s Karakum Desert.
- The crater was accidentally created by Soviet geologists in the 1960s or 1970s while prospecting for natural gas.
- Initially intended to burn for a few weeks, the crater has been burning continuously for up to 62 years.
- The crater became a tourist attraction, drawing visitors for its eerie, otherworldly spectacle, despite its remote and harsh location.
- Efforts to extinguish the crater’s flames have been considered due to environmental concerns and the loss of valuable natural gas.
To that respect, the Soviet Union during the Cold War era was no different! Nuclear meltdowns, ill-conceived military vehicles, badly timed purges of key military or medical personnel …
Most of these incidents were tragedies which left a trail of death, illness and despair in their wake. As such, they are no laughing matter. But today we can allow ourselves a quantum of levity, as we are going to discuss possibly the only Soviet cock-up which ended up creating a tourist attraction, one of the most wondrous and downright bizarre on the planet!
This is the story of the Darvaza gas crater, Turkmenistan, also known as the Gates of Hell.
Gates of Hell or Giant Stove?
This peculiar location is also known as ‘the Door to Hell’, or any other variation on that theme. So, you get the idea: it is a large crater, perpetually burning with insanely hot flames, which may rise as high as 15 metres in the air.
This fiery gate is roughly 70 meters in diameter, and 30 meters deep, meaning it could easily contain three times the US Capitol Rotunda, or be filled with the contents of 45 Olympic Swimming Pools — but even that amount of water would not be able to put out the flames, as we shall discover later.
The crater is located in the middle of the vast and inhospitable Karakum Desert. So vast, in fact, that it takes some 70% of Turkmenistan’s entire surface area. And so inhospitable that temperatures can soar to more than 50 degrees celsius in summer, and plummet below freezing during winter nights.
As you may imagine, the door to hell is in a pretty isolated location, with the closest village, Derweze, counting just about 2,000 inhabitants. If you are looking for a more lively urban centre with a few more people knocking around, then you’ll have to travel to Turkmenistan’s capital, Ashgabat, some 270 kilometers of bumpy desert road to the south.
Now, the Karakum Desert might make for a hot and hostile environment, sure, but it’s just a puny amateur when compared to what goes on within the crater itself. Temperatures inside this pit of raging flames can reach up to 1,000 degrees Celsius, which is more than 500 degrees hotter than the average temperature on Venus!
Even standing close to the edge of the circular inferno is an uncomfortable experience, similar to being exposed to overwhelming blasts of incinerating heat. Those who have visited the Darvaza phenomenon have described it as an eerie, unsettling spectacle, especially at night, when the flames permeate the surrounding darkness with a deep orange-red glow, accompanied by the roar of a fire that refuses to die.
Many visitors have described the vision of the crater at night as a portal to another dimension, or a gateway to some planet devastated by an apocalyptic event. More often than not, visitors draw comparisons with infernal imagery, and liken the crater to the entrance to the first circles of hell. Or to some sort of demonic cauldron in which Satan’s minions stir the souls of the damned.
Alternatively, the pit can evoke the image of a gigantic dragon’s mouth, smouldering with searing flames.
But if you are not inclined to such dramatic descriptions, you may as well compare the Darvaza crater to some sort of gargantuan hob or stove, which somebody forgot to turn down. The fire is still on, and is now desperately begging for someone to cook a giant cauldron of Chekdirme, a mouthwatering local dish of rice, meat, tomato and sautéed onions. That would be quite the feast!
However anticlimactic, the stove comparison would be rather appropriate, as these supposedly hellish flames are being fed by a constant flow of very mundane methane gas. Turkmenistan, in fact, has access to the world’s sixth largest reserves of natural gas, with much of it sitting underneath the Karakum desert. And the area in which the Darvaza crater is found, is right in the middle of the Zeaghly-Derveze group of gas fields.
It was this abundance of natural resources, and a desire to exploit them, which eventually gave origin to the endless flames of Darvaza …
Origin Story
We are sure that there is a parallel universe in which the Soviet and Western blocs did not engage in a nuclear arms race, but rather invested their efforts in wizardry and necromancy.
And we like to think that, in that universe, a coven of Russian and Turkmen warlocks opened a gateway to hell, to summon legions of demons for a final showdown with the forces of Capitalism.
But the origin story of the burning pit of Karakum is far more prosaic, being the result of a Soviet engineering mishap, as hinted at earlier.
We have to rewind the calendar back to 1971, or perhaps even back to 1963, according to different accounts.
Turkmenistan was still part of the USSR, and a team of Soviet geologists was sent by the Ministry of the Petroleum Industry to prospect the Zeagle-Derweze gas fields. The squad set-up a large drilling rig in the area, with the intention of boring into the desert floor and revealing some valuable pockets of natural gas.
Unfortunately, they set up their heavy rig above a cavernous void, which interrupted the otherwise solid limestone foundations of the deserts. The ground thus trembled and cracked, before swallowing the rig and revealing a deep chasm underneath. The geologists had pulled a relatively costly oopsie — they had lost some precious drilling equipment after all. But they soon realised that their mistake could have much costlier consequences.
The crater they had just revealed happened to be connected with an enormous reservoir of methane gas, which was now free to pollute the surrounding air, creating an environmental hazard. According to energy consultancy Capterio:
‘Methane is up to 83 times more potent than CO2 as a greenhouse gas’
Which motivated the geologists to enact a:
‘Shrewd and environmentally advantageous move’
The prospectors thus set the methane leak on fire, hoping that the ignited gas would burn for a few weeks. Once the flames inside the crater would run out of fuel, the team had all the best intentions to further explore the methane reservoir, and exploit it to the benefit of the Ministry of the Petroleum Industry.
This origin story was partially contradicted by Greek-Canadian explorer, broadcaster and ‘storm chaser’ George Kourounis, who visited the site in 2013 and spoke to local Turkmen geologists. According to them, the Soviet geologists did cause the collapse and opening of the chasm in 1963. But the spewing methane was lit on fire only some time in the 1980s.
Ultimately, there are no official records on the overall incident, which means there is no definitive version. But all accounts agree on the fact that geology experts — either local or sent from Moscow — had wildly underestimated the volume of gas trapped below the desert.
The flames did not go extinguished in a matter of weeks, but rather would keep on burning for months, eventually years.
The Cold War occasionally flared up in localised conflicts or tense stand-offs, while the Gates of Hell in the Karakum still burned consistently, hotter and hotter. Soviet authorities in Moscow were otherwise preoccupied in their continuous efforts to uphold Communist ideology against a Capitalist west. Understandably, they had bigger fish to fry than solving the issue of putting out the Darvaza Gas Crater.
This spectacular memento of a prospecting expedition gone wrong gradually fell into oblivion, known only to the inhabitants of the local villages. They knew the giant campfire was borne out of some sort of industrial project, but the details had been lost to time and the maze-like bureaucracy of a secretive State.
Eventually, the Soviet giant disgregated, as its components sought to detach themselves from Moscow. Turkmenistan was no exception, and declared independence on October 27, 1991.
The fires in the desert kept on scorching the air — while the outside world had absolutely no idea that such a phenomenon even existed!
Fanning the Flames
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Video Briefing
Darvaza: Turkmenistan's Eternally-Burning Crater
Since declaring independence, Turkmenistan has been ruled by only three Presidents: Saparmurat Niyazov, from 1991 to 2006. Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, from 2006 until March 2022.
And more recently his son, Serdar.
The country has been described as a secretive and totalitarian dictatorship, shaped by the cult of personality and by the frankly puzzling decrees enacted by its first ruler, Niyazov. The self-appointed ‘Turkmenbasy’, or ‘Leader of the Turkmen’ placed a strict veto on ballet and opera, forbade beards and long hair, and imposed his autobiography, the Ruhnama or ‘Book of the Soul’ as mandatory reading to obtain a driving licence.
During the Turkmenbasy era, very little was known about Turkmenistan, and the country was far from being a tourist hotspot. But President Berdimuhamedow gradually opened up the country, and government officials realised that the Darvaza Crater, once considered just the puzzling relic of Soviet industrial clumsiness, could actually become an attraction for adventurous travellers. Local travel agencies started marketing the Gates of Hell experience to foreign visitors, including it as an extra on guided tours of the capital city.
By extending a trip to Ashgabat by some 24 hours, it became possible to drive across the desert, set up camp by the fiery pit at sunset, and enjoy the otherworldly sight of the ring of fire, glowing red in the vast darkness of the Karakum. Tour guides would also offer to cook a typical Turkmen barbecue — not over the Door to Hell itself, mind you, but at a safe distance!
In fact, all travel brochures specify that visitors should only spend a few minutes by the crater, as there is a danger of inhaling noxious fumes.
The crater’s popularity slowly but gradually increased, attracting the attention of travel bloggers and trending on social media. But it would take much more for the Door to Hell to become a proper, global phenomenon.
The flames of popularity were first fanned in 2010, when the then President of Turkmenistan, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, paid an official visit to the crater. The leader did not care much for the Darvaza pit, and in fact openly described it as an inconvenient nuisance, an environmental hazard and an economic liability. Furthermore, Mr Berdimuhamedow voiced his desire for the flames to be put out for good!
The President’s tirade and his plans to seal shut the entrance to hell had the unintended consequence of further raising the crater’s profile, until it came into the crosshairs of the already mentioned explorer George Kourounis and microbiologist Dr Stefan Green.
In 2011, with funding from National Geographic and travel company Kensington Tours, the duo started organising an expedition to the crater. More precisely, and more insanely, to the very bottom of the pit, perhaps the hottest and most inhospitable location on Earth — barring active volcanoes, of course.
Their mission would be to collect samples of the soil at the crater’s bottom, and look for evidence of ‘extremophile bacteria’. In other words: unicellular organisms which are able to thrive in the most extreme environments. And if such tiny monsters can survive on hell-on-Earth itself, similar critters could be found on extrasolar planets. In Kourounis’ words:
‘There are planets that have been discovered outside of our solar system that have a very hot, methane-rich environment kind of similar to what is in the crater. So, in essence, we were looking for alien life right here on Earth.’
After grappling with Turkmen bureaucracy for two years, the expedition finally reached the Door to Hell in November 2013.
Before descending into the 1000-degree inferno, Kourounis donned his otherworldly protective gear, including a heat-resistant suit in aluminized fabric, a breathing apparatus, and a climbing harness made of kevlar. Even so, the explorer admitted to suffering extreme heat:
‘I did feel a bit like a baked potato in there!’
Nonetheless, the indomitable Kourounis rappelled down into the fiery mouth of the pit, providing the only account of experiencing the crater from within:
‘I described it as a coliseum of fire—just everywhere you look it’s thousands of these small fires. The sound was like that of a jet engine, this roaring, high-pressure, gas-burning sound. And there was no smoke. It burns very cleanly, so there’s nothing to obscure your view.’
The explorer completed the mission, collecting samples which were later analysed by Dr Green. Astonishingly, the microbiologist found some extremophile bacteria present in the soil, which he described as being ‘enriched’ by the crater’s high temperatures and low nutrient levels.
And that fact alone is way more terrifying than a perpetually burning ‘coliseum of fire’! But Kourounis’ expedition did not scare off visitors, on the contrary: his adventure raised awareness of the pit of Karakum around the world, as his photos amidst the flames went viral.
The Door to Hell had finally made it to the ‘big league’ of extreme and bizarre tourist destinations, and the first Tripadvisor reviews would soon follow …
Commenters on the popular review website generally agree that the Darvaza Gas Crater is well worth visiting, despite the lack of hospitality infrastructure, and the hassle to traverse the desert from Ashgabat. Amongst the many positive reviews, we singled out the account posted in June 2019 by American recording artist Van Pimpenstein.
‘Darvaza is like no other tourist attraction. We were in Ashgabat prepping to play a Van Pimpenstein concert for a US Embassy function when my band mates and I heard about the infamous gas crater. We decided it was a must see … The crater itself is enormous and makes for some incredible photo opportunities. Me and our bass player Richard Texas put on an impromptu performance for another tourist group that was visiting the site.’
Van Pimpenstein’s improvised concert by the rim of the crater must have been quite the sight, but it surely paled in comparison to the second official visit of President Berdymukhamedov, on August 7, 2019.
The absolute leader had disappeared from public view since July 15, the date of his last TV appearance. On that occasion, the President and his grandson had given Van Pimpenstein a run for his money, as they performed together a rap song dedicated to Turkmenistan’s natural beauty. The clip is worth watching, as the 62-year-old autocrat showcases some serious drum-machine and keyboard skills.
But following that performance, the President was nowhere to be seen, fuelling speculations that he had actually died. Perhaps to put those rumours to rest, Berdymukhamedov resurfaced in what must have been the raddest stunt pulled by a head of State in the 21st Century: in another clip, released by Turkmenistan’s state TV, the President could be seen aggressively driving a rally car around the Door to Hell, performing ‘donuts’ on the brink of the fiery pit, and ‘drifting’ on the Karakum sands like a proud member of the Toretto family.
[Editor’s note: The ‘Toretto family’ mention is a reference to the Fast and Furious franchise, where Vin Diesel stars alongside other vehicles. Clips for both of the President’s PR stunts, the rap song and the car race, can be found via ABC News.]
The Slow Death of a Dragon?
The race-car driving President must have had something of a love-hate relationship with the Darvaza gas crater. Surely it had great pulling power on international tourists! And surely it made for a great backdrop to announce he wasn’t dead yet!
But at the same time, the leader realised that the crater still posed an environmental hazard, besides burning millions of cubic metres of valuable methane gas. In January 2022, Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov voiced again his intention to snuff out the Gates of Hell for good, announcing on TV that:
‘We are losing valuable natural resources for which we could get significant profits and use them for improving the well-being of our people’
His cabinet put forward three potential solutions to finally shut down the massive desert hob:
First, one could fill the crater with sand or clay. That would make for a simple and relatively cheap solution, but it carries the risk of triggering a massive explosion.
Or how about placing a sealed, heat-resistant shell over the mouth of the crater? That should work, but it would be outrageously expensive.
Another option was to trigger a series of controlled explosions to cause a collapse of the crater’s walls. But this solution could open yet more craters.
The most viable option, proposed by state-run agency Turkemngaz was to drill new wells around the crater, so as to starve out the flames by redirecting the gas elsewhere.
Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow sat on those options for a couple of months, before stepping down from power and being replaced by his son Serdar, in March 2022.
Which may give the impression that the anguish over what to do with that blessed crater finally pushed him over the edge, and into retirement!
But obviously Turkmen politics are a much more complicated affair, and the country has been defined as an:
‘All-pervasive kleptocracy’
[Editor’s note: Source — Chatham House]
Ruled by a:
‘Tyranny [mutating] into dynasty’
[Editor’s note: Source — Civicus Lens]
The previous President had been grooming his son for succession for years, having him appointed deputy prime minister. Probably due to health issues, Gurbanguly decided it was time to engineer the handover to Serdar, who took power after securing an absolutely not suspicious 72.97% of the votes.
Since taking the top job, it appears that Serdar has tackled once again the, well, burning issue of the Door to Hell. According to the 2024 report by energy consultancy Capterio, agency Turkmengaz did manage to drill a ‘bypass’ well next to the crater, without causing accidental collapses. The effects of the bypass have been captured by satellite imagery, as reported by Capterio:
‘Independent satellite data now confirm a significant drop in emissions, highlighting the success of Turkmenistan’s efforts to reduce gas flaring, venting, and leaking.’
Depending on what origin story you choose to believe, the flames of the Door to Hell were ignited by a volatile combination of Soviet incompetence and a sincere, yet clumsy attempt to mitigate an environmental disaster. Since then, they have been burning incessantly for anything up to 62 years, first ignored by the world, and later admired as a wondrous anomaly.
Much like a mythical dragon, the Darvaza Gas Crater, was sitting atop a giant hoard of riches. Not gold and jewels, of course, but a massive reservoir of natural gas, which unfortunately is very likely to enrich only Turkmenistan’s kleptocratic elite.
And much like a mythical dragon at the end of a legendary tale, it appears that the crater may soon exhale its last, fiery breath.
Simon Whistler
Simon Whistler is one of YouTube's most prolific educational creators, with tens of millions of subscribers across his channels. Places is his expedition into the world's most remarkable locations — from cities carved from salt to islands nobody dares inhabit. He brings a researcher's rigour and a traveller's awe to every field note.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Darvaza Gas Crater?
The Darvaza Gas Crater, also known as the Gates of Hell, is a large crater in Turkmenistan that has been burning continuously since the 1970s. It is approximately 70 meters in diameter and 30 meters deep, fueled by a constant flow of methane gas.
How did the Darvaza Gas Crater originate?
The crater originated from a Soviet engineering mishap in the 1970s. Geologists drilling for natural gas accidentally uncovered a cavern, releasing methane gas. To prevent environmental hazards, they set the gas on fire, intending it to burn for a few weeks, but it has been burning ever since.
What are the temperatures like inside the Darvaza Gas Crater?
Temperatures inside the crater can reach up to 1,000 degrees Celsius, making it one of the hottest places on Earth.
Where is the Darvaza Gas Crater located?
The crater is located in the Karakum Desert in Turkmenistan, about 270 kilometers north of the capital city, Ashgabat.
What is the environmental impact of the Darvaza Gas Crater?
The crater burns millions of cubic meters of valuable methane gas, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions and posing an environmental hazard.
What are some tourist activities related to the Darvaza Gas Crater?
Tourists can visit the crater, often as part of a guided tour from Ashgabat. They can camp nearby, enjoy the fiery spectacle, and some have even performed impromptu concerts by the crater’s rim.
What are the plans to extinguish the Darvaza Gas Crater?
Turkmenistan has considered several methods to extinguish the crater, including filling it with sand or clay, placing a sealed shell over it, triggering controlled explosions, or drilling new wells to redirect the gas. As of recent reports, efforts to reduce gas emissions have been successful.
What is the significance of the Darvaza Gas Crater in Turkmenistan’s tourism?
The crater has become a major tourist attraction, drawing adventurous travelers from around the world. It has been featured in various media outlets and has gained popularity through social media and travel blogs.
What is the political context surrounding the Darvaza Gas Crater?
The crater’s management has been influenced by Turkmenistan’s political leadership. Previous presidents have expressed interest in extinguishing the flames, and the current president, Serdar Berdimuhamedow, has continued efforts to address the environmental and economic issues it presents.
What scientific research has been conducted at the Darvaza Gas Crater?
In 2013, explorer George Kourounis and microbiologist Dr. Stefan Green conducted an expedition to collect soil samples from the crater’s bottom. They discovered extremophile bacteria that thrive in the extreme conditions, providing insights into potential life on other planets.
Sources
- Original Places video: Darvaza: Turkmenistan’s Eternally-Burning Crater
- https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/entering-door-hell/
- https://www.cnn.com/travel/turkmenistan-flaming-gates-of-hell-darvaza/index.html
- https://www.livescience.com/planet-earth/geology/gates-of-hell-turkmenistans-methane-fueled-fire-pit-that-has-been-burning-since-1971
- https://geology.com/oil-and-gas/darvaza-gas-crater/
- https://www.nationalgeographic.com/premium/article/gate-hell-darvaza-gas-crater-turkmenistan-extinguish
- https://rees.sas.upenn.edu/about/spotlight/door-hell-turkmenistan
- https://flareintel.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/20240423-Capterio-New-Perspectives-on-Old-Flames-at-Darvaza-Turkmenistan-1.pdf
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- https://www.cam.ac.uk/research/news/extreme-sleepover-10-an-encounter-with-hells-gate
- https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g2049541-d3618466-Reviews-Darvaza_Gas_Crater-Darvaza_Ahal_Province.html
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- https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/the-quest-to-extinguish-the-flames-of-turkmenistans-terrifying-gates-of-hell-firepit-180979458/
- https://www.theguardian.com/world/2022/jan/08/turkmenistan-plans-to-extinguish-vast-gas-crater-fire-dubbed-gateway-to-hell
- https://phys.org/pdf560878089.pdf
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- https://www.msn.com/en-ph/news/world/turkmenistan-s-gateway-to-hell-faces-closure/ar-AA1sYNTk?ocid=UCPNC2
- Hero image source by Saga1111 / openverse, by-sa.
